Process of forming bellows folds in felted boots or fabrics.



No. 7|0,527. Patented w. 7, I902. n. A. SHAW, E.- R008 & H. B. PELTON. PROCESS OF FORMING BELLDWS FOLDS IN FELTED BOOTS 0R FABRICS.

(Application filed July 12, 1901.

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. v Patented Oct. 7, I902.. I D. A. SHAW, 5. R008 &. H. B. PELTUN. PROCESS OF FORMING BELLOWS FOLDS IN FELTED BOBTS'OR FABRICS (No Model.)

(Application filed July 12, .1901.)

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DAVID A. SIIAIV, EDIVARD ROOS, AND HENRY B. PELTON, OF l\ilISI-IA\VAKA, INDIANA.

PROCESS OF FORMlNG BELLOWS FOLDS IN FELTED BOOTS OR FABRiCS. I

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 710,527, dated October 7, 1902.

Application filed July 12, 1901. Serial No. 67,975. (No specimens.)

To all whmn, itmay concern:

Be it known that we, DAVID A. SHAW, ED- WARD Roos, and HENRY B. PELToN, citizens of the United States, residing at Mishawaka, in the county of St. Joseph and State of Indiana, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Processes of Forming Bellows Folds in Felted Boots or Fabrics; and we do declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of theinvention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same,reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Our invention has in view the following objects: first, to provide a seamless boot or legging with a bellows fold integral with the boot or legging; second, to form a boot or legging of felted or similar material with a bellows fold located below the upper edge thereof, said fold being formed without the insertion of an additional piece of material; third, to provide a boot or legging formed of seamless material with a bellows fold integral therewith; fourth, the process of forming a bellows fold at any desired portion of a felted or similar fabric, said fold being formed out of said fabric and integral therewith.

To these ends the invention consists in the process hereinafter described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective View of the blank. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the blank stitched to form two independent portions. Fig. 3 is a top plan View of Fig. 2. Fig. 4:15 atop plan view of Fig. 2, showing the upper orlegging turned, the smaller portion being within the larger. Fig. 5 is a similar view showing the last in position. Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the finished upper or legging. Fig. 7 is a perspective View showing a form in which the stitching is provided to form a somewhat different style of upper or legging. Fig. 8 is a similar view showing another form of stitching. Figs. 9 and lOare perspective views of finished uppers orleggings made from the blanks shown in Figs. 7 and 8.

The blank used (designated as 1) is formed seamless and of a shape in which the upper portion is enlarged along the leg where the bellows fold is to be formed or of a size greater than the encircling portion of the finished article.

The first step in the process is, the blank being with its inside out, to place a line of stitching (designated as 2) lengthwise of the blank, thus separating the bellows-fold portion of the boot from the leg portion, the dotted line in Fig. 1 indicating the direction in which the stitching extends relative to the blank. This stitching forms two independent portions 3 and 4 of different size and located side by side, the portion 3 being smaller and forming substantially a pocket, out of which the bellows fold is formed. After the blank has been stitched and is thereby given the shape shown in Figs. 2 and 3 it is turned through the portion 4, thus bringing the pocket 3 within the portion at, as shown in Fig. 4. The last 5 is now introduced and the fold (or the wall of the pocket) flattened down to the shape shown in Fig. 5 by the treeing process, after which the boot is dried on the last. This serves to give the blank a permanent shape, the Wall of the portion 4 forming the encircling part for the leg, while the flattened pocket forms the fold, the line of stitching 2 being at thepoint where the fold is formed in the finished article. The line of stitches is then removed in suitable manner, leaving the fold capable of distention, as may be necessary to allow the foot to freelyentertheboot. Suitablelacingdevices may be applied, as shown in Fig. 6, to enable the legging or upper to be readily laced, and in structures Where the fold does not extend to the top of the upper or legging considerable difficulty has been experienced in connecting the insertible piece which forms the fold. In the construction herein shown and described by a method of manipulation and stitching the material we are able to provide an integral bellows fold, which fold may be formed at any desired part of the upper or legging.

As shown in the drawings, and especially in Figs. 9 and 10, the bellows fold is located at some distance below the top of the upper or legging. In the form shown in Fig. 9 the lower portion of the foldthe point where it rial.

leaves the general contour of the bodyhas a construction which gives a configuration to the front of the upper or legging of an inverted-V shape, while in the form shown in Fig. 10 the lower portion appears closed, the opening being in the form of an elongated oval. These forms are due to the manner in which the stitching is provided, as shown, respectively, in Figs. '7 and 8.

To better enable an understanding of the manner in which the blank when stitched as shown in Figs. 7and 8 may be brought to produce the result shown in Figs. 9 and 10, we will describe the method in which the blank is manipulated. The blank is first formed of a suitable shape, the instep portion being larger than is necessary to provide a close fit about the instep of the wearer, and preliminary to the stitching the blank is preferably turned inside out. It will be understood, of course, that the material is seamless. The blank is then stitched in suitable manner along the line which it is desired shall form the point where the fold leaves the body portion, the line of stitching in Fig. 7 being designated as a, while that in Fig. Sis designated as b. This stitching forms within the upper or legging what might be termed two compartments, as hereinbefore described, the first being that shown to the right in Figs. 7 and 8 and comprising the main portion of the upper or legging. The second compartment or closed pocket is that portion confined by the stitching and shown on the left in said figures. The upper or legging is now turned inside out, so far as the main portion is concerned. This brings the pocket inside of the main compartment. A suitable last is now introduced which serves to form the fold by well-known manipulationviz., by treeing and drying the blank. Then when the last or tree has been removed the fold will retain the position given to it by the last or tree. The stitching is now out and removed, whereupon it will be found that a fold will be formed within the body portion, which fold is formed integral with said body portion, the fold permitting of ready manipulation in closing the instep about the leg of the wearer.

By the same process we may form a seamless bellows fold in any desired part of a fabric. The fabric is so constructed as to provide a fullness of material at the place where the bellows fold is desired. It is then folded together-wrong side out, with the line of fold runninglengthwise of the fold material. The fold material is then formed into a closed pocket by running a seam so as to separate it or set it off from the remainder of the mate- The material is then opened out and thepocket is flattened down into the required bellows-fold form, and after the fabric is dried and the fold set the stitches are removed. NVe thus have a seamless bellows fold surrounded by a margin of fabric, which can be shaped or applied to any desired structure.

It will be readily seen that while the bellows fold has been described as being located at the instep or along the front of the boot it is not necessary to have it so located, but that it is quite practicable to form a bellows fold at any desired portion of the boot. All that is necessary to be done in such case is to so form the blank as to furnish a fullness of material at the point where the bellows fold is desired and then, with thisblank turned wrong side out, to cut off this surplus material or separate it from the main portion of the boot by a seam, thus forming the surplus material into a pocket. Now by inverting the blank this pocket is thrown to the inside of the boot, and it can then be formed into a bellows fold by the insertion of a last or proper manipulation, as hereinbefore described.

While we have found in practice that it is preferable to turn the blank inside out before stitching the pocket or fold portion 0E from the main part of the boot; yet it is entirely practicable to form this fold without turning the blank. To accomplish this result, we simply press the pocket portionof the blank inward until it lies within the main portion of the boot. Then the edges of the cavity thus formed are drawn together and sewed or otherwise fastened. The last is then inserted and the bellows fold is formed at once,as hereinbefore described. It is also evident that while a seam of thread has been designated as the means used to separate the blank into the leg and fold portions other removable means, such as staples, might be employed without departing from the spirit of our invention, and we do not wish to be confinedto the precise means described. It will also be understood that while suitable closing meanssuch as lacings, hooks, or bucklescould be applied to the boot portion adjacent to the fold to enable a close fit to be obtained, that these lacings, hooks, or buckles are not absolutely necessary for the closing of the fold. In every case where an overshoe is worn the overshoe will draw the edges of the fold together, and the stiffness of the material, due to its duplication along the edges of the fold, will be such that these edges will be closed and will remain closed after the boot has been drawn upon the foot.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The process of making seamless boots and shoes, boot and shoe uppers, leggings and other like articles with a bellows fold, which consists in forming a seamless blank having a fullness at that place where it is desired to form a folding or bellows section, then separating this fullness or bellows-section from the main part of the blank by a seam, whereby independent leg and fold portions are provided and arranged side by side, then shaping the leg and fold portions by lasting or otherwise and finally removing the seam, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The process of forming a seamless bellows fold in the substance of a felted boot or shoe upper or legging, which consists in providing a seamless blank with sufficient fullness of material at the place Where the bellows fold is desired, then, with the blank inverted, forming said fullness into a pocket by running a line of stitches so as to separate it from the body of the material, thus providing independent leg and fold portions lying adjacent to each other, then turning the blank so formed, thus bringing the fold portion on the inside, then shaping and forming the fold and leg portion and finally removing the stitches, substantially as and for the purpose described.

3. The process of forming a seamless bellows fold in the substance of a fabric, which consists in providing a seamless blank-with sufficient fullness of material at the place where the bellows fold is desired, then, with the blank inverted or folded wrong side out, forming said fullness into a pocket by running a line of stitches so as to separate it from the body of the material, then turning the blank so formed, then shaping and forming the fold and finally removing the stitches, substantiallyas and for the purpose described.

4. The process of making seamless bootuppers or leggings with a bellows fold, which consists in providing a seamless blank having a fullness along its front portion, then with the blank turned inside out, forming a row of stitching longitudinally of the upper and at a point corresponding with the edges of the fold, whereby independent leg and fold portions are provided and arranged side by side, then turning the blank to bring the fold portion within the leg portion, then shaping the leg and fold portions, and finally removing the stitches, substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth.

In testimony whereof we affix our signatures in presence of two witnesses.

DAVID A. SHAWV. EDWARD ROOS. HENRY B. PELTON. Witnesses:

JAMns DU SHANE, WILLIS A. BUGBEE. 

